Water waves, my favorite type of waves, are caused by wind or groundswells that generate energy that moves through the water. However, waves will not break unless the water is shallow enough. As waves approach shallow water, the bottom (trough) of the wave slows and the top (crest) of the wave moves at the same speed. This causes the wave to crumble on itself and start to break into fun, rideable waves. When the water gets really shallow really fast, we get barreling waves where the lip throws over and provides a barrel for the surfer to get shacked out of his mind.
Unfortunately, today out at China Walls in Portlock, my friends and I were not able to "get shacked" out of our minds, but some fun surf was still provided.
